Welcome to my first ever upload! Ill be doing more of these regularly so keep an eye out and comment bellow what else you want to see.
This is how Ive got my Sony mirrorless cameras setup currently, I shoot photo and video at Weddings almost exclusively, full time here in New Zealand.
Gear I used to video this episode:
Sigma 24mm 1.4 Art + MC-11 adapter
Small HD focus bundle for Sony
Rode Wireless Lapel kit
My website: www.christurnerphotographer.com
what's up everybody for those of you that don't know me I'm Chris I'm a wedding photographer based in Auckland New Zealand and I'm getting a lot of questions about Sony and people that are switching over from Canon or Nikon or whatever as to how to set up their cameras so I just thought I'd go over the settings that I have on my a7 r3 out of the box they're not really set up that intuitively so anyway let's get into it and we'll see how I set up my camera ok guys so first things first I'll just go over the settings that are important to me I won't go through every menu option because there's a lot in here let's just go over the things that I change straight out of the box obviously this has dual card slots I shoot water both if you wanted to do orange a pig you just set that up in here but I don't do it I run compressed file type because the files uncompressed like 80 megabytes or something H it may be even larger so and I don't find as much difference in quality between compressed and uncompressed so memory relates to these custom settings on top here which I have programs of video so for example one I have set to 25 P 2 I have set to 50 P and 3 I have set to 100 P moving through these menus I have my focus mode set to continuous AF all the time because I'm using backbone and focus usually I have my focus area to sit to flexible spot medium but I'll go through those as well and detail and another video but that's it flexible spot medium seems to be the best way if it's small if you have it on small sometimes that's a little bit too small to get a contrast point and it can struggle with focus a little bit over tracking since it already set to responsive pre a if I have off sometimes it can it can pre focus for you when you point the camera at something I just fight a little bit annoying phase to take the area I have on some of you know that I shoot an effort your priority a lot I use manual for flash and dancefloor scenes and things like that where the lights a little bit crazy but generally I keep it in aperture priority and I use auto ISO if you have a look when you go into ISO Auto you can set your maximum minimum shutter speed I'm comfortable with like twelve thousand eight hundred for general kind of shooting otherwise Easy's have it set to 6400 and a minimum of 100 and then here I set my minimum shutter speed to 250th of a second metering mode I have on multi which is like matrix metering I guess there's a few more advanced options that you can have entire screen average or you can have highlight mode skipping through more of these options I'm just changing things that are set up differently out of the box exposure compensation I have to ambient only not and being ambient in flesh because I just want the dial here to change ambient not not flesh even though I'm usually using manual flesh white balance I have set to auto the trick here to get more accurate as I don't know why this is included you'd think it would just be like that by default but if you go prioritise it and order white balance and set it to white and I find they get a little bit more consistency with auto white balance into this menu now I have released without card disabled so if you forget to put your card on the camera it's not going to just shoot away and you're not going to know about it so they just make sure that if you if you take a photo it's not going it's going to give you a warning scene to put your card in there I think that's enabled by default so just make sure you disable that now custom keys that these are the important ones that you want to get these program or your AF on bones and AEL buttons and all that sort of stuff so I have my AF on button sit to backburner focus and AEL button sit to I focus I have my c1 and c2 button so c1 is set to white balance and c2 is set to focus peaking so if you're in manual focus that zooms in and it gives you a like a ten times magnification so you can really accurately manually focus these are the things you really want to pay attention to because this is what makes the system really really quick so let's jump into that and we'll see how I have it set up so custom keys if you just take note of these this is the way I have it set up and I've had to sit up for about a year since I switched to Sony give or take a few things but if you set up like this it works really really well the key things here at AF on button so have that set to AF on and AEL to ia if this way if you're if there's no face in the photo you can you say f on and use the centerpoint focus otherwise if there is a face then you just hit I and it'll detect there instead so it's a really quick action going between your thumb here the other important thing to do once you've got AF on setup is to go into this menu here in AF – and – and AF or shut it off that just disables the focus from the shutter button so you know you you're your own proper back button focus now another one I skipped past is ng flicker shoot turn that on that's just with like flickering lights and things like that it disables most of that kind of banding you get in your photos which is pretty handy the n9 doesn't have their I think the a7 r3 and the a7 three does skipping through here to set up one you'll notice you can change the brightness and your viewfinder and your monitor a good thing to do is just be aware that because you're not looking through your lens anywhere you're looking at digital display if it's quite dark outside it's gonna look better exposed than it is so usually if it's really dark I'll set my monitor my viewfinder brightness down a little bit touch operation I usually have it off I have it also set to c4 so I can just turn that on quickly and move my focus point around so that's the main things with focus the other thing I'll go over quickly it's just your focus point so just like a normal DSLR you use the joystick here and to move the focus point around and send to tap you just push in to go back to the middle you can go all the way to the edges of the frame and it's really super accurate and as I said before I use a e L button most of time because I'm usually photographing people and you know they have eyeballs and I want the camera to focus on that because it's super accurate the other thing here is your if in this is like your cue button if you're on a on a Canon it just gives you your like quick options and you can change these all on the menu as well alright everybody so that's how I have my camera set up and there's a few more things that we can go through but I don't want the video to be too long so if you have any questions or things you want me to cover just put that in the comments below and I'll do another video at some point really soon thanks for watching and I hope you enjoy the video